THE IMPORTANCE OF LUNAR (CHINESE) NEW YEAR COLLECTIONS
We recently sat down with Etterette by Vivian Lee Head Designer and Creative Director Vivian Mazuki to discuss why designers and brands throughout China and South East Asia choose to release Lunar (Chinese) New year collections and the impact these collections have on Asia's fashion industry at large.
East & West: After the success of your debut runway show at Jakarta Fashion Week, why did you decide to create an exclusive Lunar New Year (CNY) Collection?
Vivian Mazuki: Chinese New Year is one of my favorite celebrations of the year, and I wanted to anticipate the festivity and channel that excitement towards my work. Wearing new clothes is one of the traditions of the Lunar New Year. New clothes symbolize a new beginning and new hope. I wanted to create pieces targeted to those who go by this belief.
E&W: Do you think it’s important for emerging designers like yourself who are based in Asia to release a Lunar New Year collection? If so, why?
VM: It is important, and I feel even more certain of the importance of doing so after completing the collection. In countries like Indonesia (where I’m based in), we don’t get 4 seasons, so it makes more sense to launch collections during festive seasons such as Chinese New Year. I feel that that’s when our consumers are looking to add pieces to their wardrobe.
Also, by releasing a Chinese New Year collection, it helps an emerging designer like me stay in touch with my character, which in some ways are moulded by my family’s Chinese upbringing.
Design is a form of self-realization, and I feel that this collection allowed me to go back to my roots and reminded me to stay true to my identity.
E&W: From what I've seen thus far on Instagram the collection is beautiful, what was the inspiration behind this collection besides the obvious fact that it was created for Lunar New Year?
VM: Thank you for your kind words. The collection is based on the idea of happiness, thus the name “Radiance”. I wanted to explore the kind of happiness that I feel when I hear the sound of firecrackers, laughter and Chinese traditional music – A warm and fuzzy feeling.
E&W: As you grew up in both Singapore and Indonesia, two countries with significantly large Chinese communities, are there any Indonesian or Singaporean cultural / design elements incoporated into this collection?
VM: I think there are definitely hints of Singapore and Indonesia in the collection. Those elements would come naturally due to the influences that these countries have in my life. In countries like Singapore and Indonesia, where so many different cultures come together, I see that Chinese elements are interpreted differently, almost in a way that it’s “fusion-ed” with other ethnicities, and there is something very beautiful about that. I wanted to extract the subtle and abstract representations of what it means to be Chinese. I believe that there is more to being Chinese than wearing a Cheong Sam, and eating with chopsticks.
E&W: Tell us about the creative process, what materials did you use? How long did it take for the collection to be completed?
VM: With this collection, I opted for fabrics that portray nuances of Chinese New Year colours and textures. The colours range from reds, gold, to greens. We have pieces that are in grey and black to add balance to the collection.
Even though black is not known to be a Chinese New Year colour, it can be paired with another piece of a bright colour to celebrate the auspicious day. Some people (like me) might not be comfortable with wearing bright colours from head to toe, so I wanted to suggest looks that can be catered to them as well.
Comfort is an important factor when it comes to fabric selection. I chose fabrics that are comfortable yet festive. A prominent fabric in collection is jersey. Lightweight jerseys provide comfort and ease for those who celebrate the New Year at home. Other fabrics include gabardine and worsted wool blend fabric. The collection took about 2 months to complete. As this is a capsule collection, it naturally took less time develop.
E&W: Who is the Etterette by Vivian Lee women and what would be her top picks from this collection?
VM: The Etterette woman is someone who is the definition of being a female today. Being a woman our era means to be unapologetically feminine, and to have a voice. The Etterette woman is a passionate visionary, be it at work or in her household. She understands the importance of both family and career, and lives to seek fulfilment in both aspects.
The Etterette woman will definitely go for the bolder looks, ones with textures that would represent a more fearless persona, and a silhouette that would celebrate her body.
E&W: What are your favorite pieces from this collection and why?
VM: My favourite pieces are Rais, a jersey dress with asymmetrical drape detail and side cut-out detail, and the Jaide dress which has a stylized neckline with diagonal fabric manipulation detail. The two designs were the master designs of the collection, which was then further explored and made into different versions and categories. They are also pieces that I can see myself wearing the most.
E&W: If you could see a piece from this collection anyone who would it be and what piece would they be wearing?
VM: I design with the Etterette woman in mind, so definitely someone that embodies that character, or even someone who aspires to be such a woman. In terms of what they would be wearing, I think is a matter of what is suitable for the event.
E&W: What does Lunar New Year mean to you and what will you be doing to celebrate?
VM: Lunar New Year is when families and friends come together to celebrate togetherness and a new beginning. It is a time to forgive, let go, and embrace new adventures as a family. Every Chinese New Year, I visit my hometown in Medan. I would visit the homes of relatives and friends. We greet one another with words of blessings, and in return, those who are married would give red packet as a form appreciation. We celebrate with great food, games, great company, and did I mention great food?
POST DETAILS
INTERVIEW BY: Jourdie
INTERVIEWIEE: Vivian Mazuki
PHOTOGRPHS BY: Sean William Salim
MODEL: Astrid Susanto